2000-06-17 - 05:00:32

I've spent the last 5 days in and around Anchorage, mostly trying to get a feel for the place, and making preparations for the months ahead. Adjusting to the time zone hasn't been a problem; Alaska has a great daylight savings system - it doesn't get dark! On my first night, I woke up at 3am and looked out the window to see a guy in the garden reading a book!

On my 2nd day, I met a Canadian couple, Del and Lynn who had just arrived after cycling through South America. We spent the day trading stories and cycling the coastal trail around Anchorage. Afterwards they invited me back to their campsite for a pot-luck dinner and introduced me to Dave and Ursula, a Swiss couple who are starting their trip to Mexico. They're taking a different route, but we hope to meet up at some point.

Tuesday was shopping day. Fortunately, Anchorage has one of the largest outdoors shops I've ever seen. Unfortunately this means I've spent nearly US$800 in 5 days. But I can now say I'm prepared for whatever Alaska can throw at me - snow, wind, rain, shine, mosquitos and bears.

On Wednesday I decided to put my equipment to the test. Leaving most of my gear in Anchorage, I chucked the bike on a bus to Denali national park, some 250 miles north of Anchorage. Arriving mid afternoon, I then got on the last bus to the end of the park's gravel road, 85 miles through the heart of Alaska's best known park, at the foothills of Mt. McKinley - Nth. America's highest mountain at 20,300ft.

My plan was to ride back through the park overnight (no darkness remember!) and then get the bus back to Anchorage the following morning. I set off at about 8.30pm in cold drizzle and swarms of mosquitos, pleased at my purchases the previous day. An hour later, the skies began to clear and I thought I was in for a fantastic ride. Just as I passed the 10 mile mark, my rear tyre burst. I took the wheel off and was horrified to find that the tyre (not the tube)had split. A lot of mumbling and fumbling for tools followed, and in my haste to get the tyre off, I snapped one of my only two tyre levers. I managed to make a makeshift patch for the tyre, and then using a screw driver and lever, tried to ease the tyre back on. Crack! This time the rim of my wheel had split! I realised my ride was over and was less than happy. I was also beginning to get cold, even under layers of Gortex and thermal clothing, and knew that I wouldn't see another vehicle on the road until 7am at the earliest. With a hastily constructed emergency tyre filled with tundra, twigs and leaves, I got back on the bike, determined to keep riding for warmth. It was now midnight and after about 10 minutes on the bike, I rounded a corner and skidded abrubtly, 50 feet from a large bull moose! He seemed equally surprised and for the next 5 minutes we checked each other out, exchanged pleasantries ('Gidday mate', 'nice horns ' and that sort of thing) before he ambled off on his merry way and I limped on down the road.

An hour later I was knackered and frustrated at the speed I was managing on the bumpy road. I parked the bike and climbed up a likely looking peak, where I was dumbstruck by the most awe-inspiring 360degree view which included a huge glacier and glacial valley on one side, Mt. McKinley on another, and endless green and brown arctic tundra on the other.

I decided it was time to sleep. Fully clothed, I climbed into my 'space bag' (reflective polythene for retaining body heat)and lay down for an hour or two, but awoke, again freezing cold. Back down the hill, onto the bike and an hour later, I reached a ranger station, where Ranger Bob was just out of bed and making his morning coffee.

After several hours of coffee and ranger stories, I got the first bus back through the park. Unlike the bus ride in, this ride encountered tons of wildlife, including moose, carabou (reindeer), Dall sheep (huge!) and finally, a large female grizzly with 2 cubs.

Anchorage has been a fascinating introduction to the U.S. As the convergence between east and west with Siberia on one side of the dateline and Alaska on the other - only 50 miles separating them, Anchorage is definately a hodge-podge of cultures and people while still retaining a very American feel. I still can't quite get used to the enormous cars on the wrong side of the street, television accents and general American flavour, but on the other hand, Anchorage is a fascinating melting pot of travellers, dreamers and drifters, of which I suppose I'm just one more.

The weather's been mostly fine and clear, allowing great views of the mountains. The air is constantly abuzz with planes; from float planes ferrying tourists around Alaska's numerous islands, to F-18 fighter jets screaming over at supersonic speeds reminding Alaskans that the communists are only a stones throw away.

With even more money spent repairing the bike today and my credit card starting to groan, I feel ready to hit the wilderness and get underway. My basic route for the next few weeks will take me south about 220 miles to Homer, then by ferry through the inside passage to Kodiak Island (Grizzly bear central), then to Valdez (site of the Exon Valdez oil disaster) and back on the bike for a 450 mile ride to Dawson City, Canada, via Wrangell St. Elias national park (more bears and moose...free steak knives for the person who can tell me the plural of moose - mise? mooses? moosen?).

And that's about it folks. Oh, and you know what, this morning a.m, I got myself my first Subway menmbership card. It entitles me to bonus points, discounts and specials everytime I visit my nearest Subway outlet. You gotta love America! Total distance cycled: 267km

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